#

09

/

10

Okayama

Okayama

KAGAWA

Kagawa

A Journey Through the Setouchi International Art Festival

#Setouchi International Art Festival
#Naoshima New Museum of Art
#Inujima Refinery Museum
#Fried Flounder

A tour of
architecture in Japan

November

11.2-4

March
to
December
2025

Journey
through
Japanese
Architecture

CONTENTS

Introduction / Table of Contents

INUJIMASPECIALNAOSHIMA

[Introduction.]

Studio Design Award 2024 Grand Prix Winner (Travel and Work) As part of the 1 million yen prize money received as a supplementary award, this is the ninth installment of "Travel and Work | A Journey Through Japanese Architecture," a 10-month project to verify the idea that "creativity seems to be proportional to distance traveled."
This time, we head to the Setouchi Triennale for the third time in my life.

[Total distance traveled to date]

about

6,182

km

第9弾

Tokyo → Okayama → Inujima → Naoshima

about

694

km

第8弾

Tokyo → Shibukawa → Maebashi → Ōta

about

189

km

第7弾

Tokyo → Matsue → Masuda

about

894

km

第6弾

Tokyo → Sanjo → Niigata → Nagaoka

about

390

km

第5弾

Tokyo → Sapporo → Otaru

about

858

km

第4弾

Tokyo → Yamagata → Sakata/Tsuruoka

about

513

km

第3弾

Tokyo → Osaka

about

552

km

第2弾

Tokyo → Kumamoto → Aso

about

908

km

第1弾

Tokyo → Ishikawa → Toyama

about

515

km

[Travel expenses to date]

746,076

Yen / Yen

100

10,000 Yen

第9弾

Okayama and Kagawa

101,532

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

37,240

lodging expense

39,600

Setouchi Triennale Art Festival Passport

4,500

Museum admission fees (3)

5,400

Talking about Studio with a side of Studio

9,310

rent-a-cycle

1,500

Local Specialty Food Expenses

3,982

第8弾

Gunma

114,394

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

9,640

Shiraiya Hotel (Accommodations & Dining)

100,154

Hara Museum ARC

1,800

Lunch (Café D'Arle)

1,800

Arts Maebashi

1,000

第7弾

Shimane

90,735

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

40,430

lodging expense

25,331

Shimane Specialty Food Expenses

7,834

Adachi Museum of Art

2,500

toll

2,440

Shimane Prefectural Museum of Art

1,150

Shimane Prefectural Iwami Art Museum

1,050

Talking about Studio with a side of Studio

10,000

第6弾

Niigata

25,868

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

15,860

lodging expense

10,008

Talking about Studio with a side of Studio

Thank you for the meal.

第5弾

Hokkaido

83,305

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

36,229

lodging expense

35,730

Talking about Studio with a side of Studio

5,976

rent-a-cycle

1,700

Head Buddha Viewing Fee

500

Food and beverage expenses

3,170

第4弾

Yamagata

85,555

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

35,960

lodging expense

30,640

Hotel Dinner

9,990

Honma Museum of Art

1,100

Ken Domon Memorial Museum

900

rent-a-cycle

500

Sora

1,500

Kamo Aquarium

1,500

Shido Museum

1,000

Food and beverage expenses

2,465

第3弾

Osaka

115,260

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

29,440

lodging expense

68,000

Expo ticket (2 days / 1 adult)

12,000

Talking about Studio with a side of Studio

5,000

Kanza: Delicious Ramen

820

第2弾

Aso, Kumamoto

66,627

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

41,327

lodging expense

8,500

coin-operated locker

700

Talking about Studio with a side of Studio

8,370

Kumamoto's famous food

6,730

Mt. Aso Park Road Usage Fee

1,000

第1弾

Ishikawa/Toyama

62,800

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

30,200

lodging expense

16,400

rent-a-cycle

1,100

art museum

2,000

Talking about Studio with a side of Studio

12,000

Toyama Black Ramen & Rice

1,100

They say creativity is proportional to the distance traveled.
OKAYAMA
Inujima

2025.11.2

/ Day 1

Inujima

region

Okayama City, Higashi Ward, Okayama Prefecture

area

0.54 km²

total population

36 people (2020 Census)

※Excerpt from Wikipedia (November 2025)

11:45

art museum

Inujima Art Museum

Inujima Seirensho Art Museum

The weight of history felt in the ruins
A nostalgic museum where greenery and modernity blend

Leaving home at 5:30 AM, I boarded the first Shinkansen from Tokyo Station bound for Okayama.
This trip marks my third visit to the Setouchi International Art Festival. I considered flying, but after weighing the hassle of accessing the islands, I opted for the Shinkansen.
My first destination was Inujima, a place I'd never visited before. I'd long been curious about the Inujima Exile Art Museum, but whenever I toured the standard stops of Naoshima and Teshima, I somehow never made it this far. This trip was finally my chance. Since I had a talk event with Studio as the topic planned for tonight, I needed to be back at Okayama Station by around 5 PM.
After researching, I decided on the route: "Okayama Station → Bus → Hoden Port → Inujima."
Arriving at Okayama Station, I hurriedly searched for a coin locker, shoved my suitcase into one at Sansute Okayama, and jogged to the bus stop.
The bus ride to Hōden Port took about 50 minutes.
I'd thought Inujima might not be too crowded, but boarding the third run of the 60-passenger high-speed ferry, it was packed—no surprise given it was late autumn during the exhibition season.

The high-speed ferry takes about 10 minutes to reach Inujima.
After arriving, I first visited the House Project F residence before heading to my main destination, the Inujima Refinery Art Museum.
The Inujima Refinery Art Museum is a museum that preserves and revitalizes the remains of the copper smelting works still present on Inujima.
It's also fascinating that sustainable initiatives are implemented here, such as Hiroshi Mito's architecture utilizing natural energy sources like solar and geothermal power to minimize environmental impact, and the introduction of an advanced water purification system harnessing the power of plants.
It seems over 2,000 employees worked here at its peak, but operations ceased in 1919 due to factors like the collapse of copper prices, and it was completely shut down in 1925.
The chimneys and bricks, chipped and crumbling in places while retaining traces of their former self, overgrown with grass and vines, create an indescribably nostalgic and cool atmosphere.
Moreover, the view of the Seto Inland Sea from there was incredibly beautiful, evoking a sense of slow-flowing time.

Hours of operation

9:00 AM - 4:30 PM (Last admission at 4:00 PM)
Ticket Center: 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM

closed day

Tuesday–Thursday (March 1–November 30)
※Open on national holidays

※As of November 2025

12:40

lunch

Cafe Stand Kururi

CAFE STAND KURURI


Hamo Katsu Burger

For lunch, we headed to this cafe near the Inujima Art Museum.
Their specialty seems to be original burgers and homemade ice cream, and among them, the unusual hamo katsu burger looked recommended, so we decided to try that.
The wooden hut kitchen, apparently built by the owner himself over six months, was incredibly charming, and eating on the outdoor terrace was a very pleasant experience.

Cafe Stand Kururi

Business Hours

11:00 AM to 3:00 PM

regular closing day

Irregular holidays

address (e.g. of house)

265 Inujima, Higashi Ward, Okayama City

devices

※As of November 2025

1:30 PM

mixed-use complex

Inujima Art Tour

INUJIMA ART


An island with just the right size

After filling your stomach, enjoy a pleasant stroll toward the artworks scattered across Inujima.
Inujima is a small island, just 3.6km in circumference and 0.54k㎡ in area, so you can walk from one end to the other, taking in the art, in just 1-2 hours.The Inujima Smelting Plant opened in 1909. During its peak 10-year operation, the population exceeded 3,000 residents. However, following the plant's closure and the decline of the quarrying industry, the current population is said to be just one-hundredth of that.
The "House Project," which transforms Inujima's houses into art, is led by Artistic Director Yuko Hasegawa and architect Kazuyo Sejima.
Various artists' works are integrated into the houses for display, making even just strolling around fascinating.
Moreover, the weather was perfect—a T-shirt was sufficient, making it an ideal day for a walk.

After circling the entire island, I still had time before the high-speed ferry departure. So I ended up ordering a café au lait at the café attached to the ticket center and spent a little time writing my blog on a terrace bench with a great view of the Seto Inland Sea.
Lately, whenever I have a little free time during my travels, I've been writing this blog lol
The return high-speed ferry departed at 15:35, but apparently this time is the busiest. When I headed to the boarding area, there was a long line...
Since I had received a priority ticket for this time slot upon arriving at Inujima, I managed to get on within the capacity limit. If I hadn't gotten it, I would have definitely been on the second ferry or later.
Please enjoy the photos of Inujima in the "Enjoy Inujima Through Photos" section below.

17:30

tavern

Izakaya Mamotan

This "Studio Talk Sessions" is a side project of our journey exploring Japanese architecture. It's an initiative to meet Studio users in the places we visit and hear all sorts of stories about Studio.
This time, Chanremi connected us, and we got to have drinks with Mr. Tsuzaki from Aqua Plus Design Co., Ltd., one of the Studio Experts in Okayama.

When we returned to Okayama Station by bus, the very gentle and approachable Mr. Tsuzaki was already waiting for us in front of the ticket gates.Even though it was our first meeting, Mr. Tsuzaki was incredibly easy to talk to. As he guided me to a restaurant he occasionally visits, featuring a traditional charcoal grill style, deep conversations naturally began.
The flow continued after our toast, with various topics unfolding endlessly. Among them, the discussion about a new venture using AI was particularly fascinating, so I basically bombarded him with questions lol.
How they started their own business, who they're targeting, and how they're expanding – the clear, easy-to-visualize flow, including future plans, was really interesting.
Also, how every part of their career path connects and contributes to where they are now was incredibly insightful. Learning about the immense effort behind their current success made it a truly educational and enjoyable time.

Izakaya Mamotan

address (e.g. of house)

2-4-7 Tamachi, Kita Ward, Okayama City, Okayama Prefecture

Business Hours

Mon-Thu, Sun, Holidays & Days After Holidays: 5:00 PM - 12:00 AM (Last Order 11:30 PM)
Fri, Sat, Days Before Holidays: 5:00 PM - 1:00 AM
(Last Order 12:30 AM)

※As of November 2025

SPECIAL

Island


: Enjoying the Island Through Photos

SHIROIYA HOTEL

KAGAWA
Naoshima

2025.11.3

/ Day 2

Naoshima Town

region

Shikoku region

area

14.21 km²

total population

2,935人

※Excerpt from Wikipedia (November 2025)

10:00

art museum

Lee Ufan Museum

LEE-UFAN ART MUSEUM


: A Museum Collaboration by Lee Ufan and Tadao Ando

After finishing breakfast at the inn at 7 a.m., I boarded the 8 o'clock ferry and headed for Naoshima.
Gazing at the beautiful islands floating in the Seto Inland Sea from the ferry's observation deck, I arrived at Naoshima in just about 20 minutes.
Rental Bicycle I picked up the rental bicycle I had reserved at Ougiya and headed for the Lee Ufan Museum, which I had never visited before.

Having visited several art festivals before, Naoshima might just be my favorite. (Teshima's Teshima Art Museum is also highly recommended, but I've already been there, so I'll skip it this time lol)

The Lee Ufan Museum is an art museum born from the collaboration between internationally acclaimed artist Lee Ufan and architect Tadao Ando. Simple, refined artworks without excess are displayed within the expansive space, creating a highly sophisticated and beautiful environment.
Furthermore, the works displayed outside the museum were also splendid. The arches, positioned as if facing the vast expanse of the Seto Inland Sea, harmonized beautifully with nature, creating a truly pleasant feeling.

Hours of operation

10:00 AM - 5:00 PM (Last admission at 4:30 PM)

closed day

Monday
※ However, open on national holidays and holidays, closed the following day

※As of November 2025

10:45

art museum

Naoshima New Art Museum

NAOSHIMA NEW MUSEUM OF ART

99 Wolves: A Stunning Spectacle!
A breathtakingly powerful work of art

Naoshima is the main island I always visit when coming to the Setouchi International Art Festival, but my primary purpose for coming here this time was the Naoshima New Museum, which just opened in spring 2025. Its design is by Tadao Ando, synonymous with Naoshima.
The museum, spanning three levels (two underground and one above ground), focuses on exhibiting and collecting representative works and commissioned pieces by artists from Asia, including Japan. Among them, the most spectacular was Cai Guo-Qiang's work "Head On."
The sight of 99 wolves running and soaring through the vast space was truly breathtaking!
Seeing this alone made the trip worthwhile.
The museum itself is beautiful, with light streaming through triangular windows in its soaring atrium ceiling and striking diagonal concrete lines.
I didn't use the attached cafe, but its location overlooking the great outdoors looked absolutely perfect for relaxing.

Hours of operation

10:00 AM - 4:30 PM (Last admission at 4:00 PM)

closed day

Monday
※ However, open on national holidays and holidays, closed the following day

11:45

art museum

Chichu Art Museum

CHICHU ART MUSEUM


A museum where the concrete lines are painfully sharp and beautiful

When it comes to famous museums on Naoshima, this is the one: the Chichu Art Museum, established in 2004 as "a place to contemplate the relationship between nature and humanity." Of course, it was designed by Tadao Ando.
Like the Lee Ufan Museum, it's a shame photography isn't allowed inside, but it's an incredibly cool museum.
The concrete lines are sharpened to an almost excessive simplicity, creating an absolutely stunning beauty, and every work on display is equally simple and uncompromising.
The painfully refined and sophisticated museum is incredibly cool, and the light filtering through the calculated gaps in the building was also beautiful.
There are various works, but James Turrell's piece "Open Sky," where you see the sky through a rectangular hole in the ceiling, is incredibly simple yet truly beautiful. It's the real sky, yet it's so beautiful it creates the illusion of being projected onto a screen. The fact that photography isn't allowed might also help you immerse yourself in the work.

Hours of operation

【Reservation Required】
10:00 AM - 5:00 PM (Last admission at 4:00 PM)

closed day

Monday
※ However, open on national holidays and holidays, closed the following day

1:20 PM

lunch

calm

YUNAGI


Inside is fluffy

After visiting the Chichu Art Museum, I debated where to have lunch. While the museum's attached Chichu Cafe was tempting, I opted for this spot instead, drawn by its authentic Naoshima charm and the chance to try their fried flounder.
Located right near Miyaura Port on Naoshima, this restaurant specializes in flounder.
Their fried flounder is particularly famous, so I ordered it without hesitation.
The kitchen echoed with the crisp, savory sound of flounder frying.The fried flounder arrived shortly after ordering. The outside was crispy and fragrant, while the inside was fluffy. It wasn't seasoned, so you add salt to your own taste, but the natural flavor of the fish came through beautifully and it was incredibly delicious.

calm

Business Hours

Sun-Sun: 11:00 AM - 3:00 PM

regular closing day

Monday, Tuesday

address (e.g. of house)

2249-5 Naoshima-cho, Kagawa-gun, Kagawa Prefecture

devices

※As of November 2025

14:00

art museum

Benesse House
Museum

BENESSE HOUSE MUSEUM


A museum integrated with the hotel where nature, architecture, and art coexist

After lunch, we headed to the final museum of the day: the Benesse House Museum. Opened in 1992, it's a facility where the museum and hotel are integrated, based on the concept of "the symbiosis of nature, architecture, and art." Of course, it was designed by Tadao Ando.
As a museum where you can actually stay overnight, I had initially hoped to book a stay here. However, even over a month in advance, reservations were already fully booked, so that dream didn't come true.
Benesse House Museum is even more like a proper art museum than Chichu Art Museum.
You can see various works like paintings, sculptures, photography, and installations. Apparently, the artists themselves choose the locations and create their works there.

Hours of operation

8:00 AM - 9:00 PM (Last admission at 8:00 PM)

closed day

open every day of the year

※As of November 2025

15:00

cafe

CAFE

cafe latte tour

After visiting four museums in a row, I was feeling pretty full, so I took a little break for some cafe latte time.
Since it was a Monday holiday, many shops were closed, and cafes with good views were packed. I ended up taking a break at a cafe I happened to find right behind the House Project. The customers in front of me and behind me were both foreigners. This was my third time at the Setouchi Triennale, but I was surprised at how much the number of foreign tourists has increased.

Candy and coffee

address (e.g. of house)

710 Naoshima-cho, Kagawa-gun, Kagawa Prefecture

Business Hours

Mon-Tue, Sat-Sun: 12:00 PM - 4:00 PM

※As of November 2025

3:15 PM

art museum

House Project Tour

HOUSE PROJECT

Enjoying the scattered artworks
Just like an art festival

After taking a break with a café latte, I enjoyed strolling around and taking in the art of the House Project scattered around this area. Naoshima itself is quite large, but I was happy that the House Project was clustered together in one area, making it easy to see.
I had already seen them before, but it was interesting to see my favorite artists' works again: Shinro Ohtake's "Haiya" and Hiroshi Senju's "The Faure".
There is a place called "I♥︎Yu" designed by Shinro Ohtake, an art facility where you can actually take a bath. You can only enter this facility if you take a bath. It's also interesting, so if you have a chance to visit Naoshima, I highly recommend this public bath.

After touring the island, I returned the rental bike that had served me well for the day and boarded the ferry to Uno Port in Okayama, bringing this journey to an end. The Seto Inland Sea, bathed in the evening glow on the way back, was truly beautiful.
Goodbye, Naoshima.
Well, with this, only one more trip remains on this journey.

Hiroshi Senju

Ishibashi "The Faure / Garden in the Sky"

Tatsuo Miyajima

Kadoya "Sea of Time '98"

Hiroshi Sanbuichi

The Naoshima Plan "Water"

Shinro Ohtake

Dentist "Tongue-on-Dream / Peek-a-Boo"

Hiroshi Sugimoto

Gōō Shrine "Appropriate Proportion"

Travel, Work, and

A Journey Through Japanese Architecture

March
to
December
2025

Journey
through
Japanese
Architecture

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