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KUMAMOTO

Kumamoto

ASO

Aso

A Journey to the Library and the Great Outdoors

#Shiranui Museum Library
#Children's Book Forest Kumamoto
#Aso Mountain
#Kumamoto Ramen

A tour of
architecture in Japan

April

4.24-25

March
to
December
2025

Journey
through
Japanese
Architecture

CONTENTS

Introduction / Table of Contents

KUMAMOTOASO

[Introduction.]

This is the second installment of "Travel and Work|An Architectural Tour of Japan," a 10-month verification of the "creativity is said to be proportional to the distance traveled" as a use of the 1 million yen prize money received as a side prize for winning the Studio Design Award 2024 Grand Prix (Travel and Work and).
This time, we went on a trip to "Children's Book Forest, Kumamoto," built by Tadao Ando, and to Aso, where a friend of mine from high school lives.

[Total distance traveled to date]

about

1,423

km

第2弾

Tokyo → Kumamoto → Aso

about

908

km

第1弾

Tokyo → Ishikawa → Toyama

about

515

km

[Travel expenses to date]

129,427

Yen / Yen

100

10,000 Yen

第2弾

Aso, Kumamoto

66,627

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

41,327

lodging expense

8,500

coin-operated locker

700

Talking about Studio with a side of Studio

8,370

Kumamoto's famous food

6,730

Mt. Aso Park Road Usage Fee

1,000

第1弾

Ishikawa/Toyama

62,800

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

30,200

lodging expense

16,400

rent-a-cycle

1,100

art museum

2,000

Talking about Studio with a side of Studio

12,000

Toyama Black Ramen & Rice

1,100

They say creativity is proportional to the distance traveled.
KUMAMOTO
Kumamoto

2025.5.24

/ Day 1

Kumamoto prefecture (Kyushu)

region

Kyushu region (incl. Southwestern Islands)

area

7,409.19 km2

total population

1,687,085人

prefectural capital

Kumamoto City

*Excerpt from Wikipedia (April 2025)

13:05

ramen

Kumamoto Ramen

KUMAMOTO RAMEN

Scented with burnt garlic oil
Kumamoto ramen on the high road

After arriving at Kumamoto Airport from Haneda Airport in about two hours, I immediately boarded a limousine bus that took about an hour to get to Kumamoto Station. The train to our first destination, "Shiranui Museum and Library," was about 30 minutes away, but as a ramen lover, I really wanted to try authentic Kumamoto ramen, so with suitcase in hand, I dashed to the most established restaurant, "Kurotei Honten".
Since the recommended menu is usually at the top left of the ticket machine, I chose "Ramen with egg" without hesitation.
The Kumamoto Ramen arrived shortly after we were seated. The aroma of blackened garlic floating on top of the thick pork bone broth whetted my appetite.
The authentic Kumamoto ramen, which is served with egg yolk mixed with the noodles, was not as thick as it looked, and was lighter than expected.

However, considering the time it took to catch the next train, I didn't have time to enjoy it, so I hurriedly devoured my ramen and made a dash back to Kumamoto Station.
As soon as I arrived at the station, I put my suitcase in a coin locker and dashed to the nearest station, Matsuhashi Station, to board the JR Kagoshima Main Line.
Considering that the interval between trains is about 30 minutes, just one delay at each location would cost us an hour, so we had no choice but to hurry in order to make it in time for the closing time of the Children's Book Forest Kumamoto, our final destination for the day.

Kumamoto Ramen Kurotei Main Branch

Business Hours

10:30-20:30(O.S) 21:00 CLOSING

address (e.g. of house)

2-1-23 Nihongi, Nishi-ku, Kumamoto-shi, Kumamoto 860-0051

devices

*As of April 2025

14:20

library

Shiranui Museum of Art,
Library

SHIRANUI ART MUSEUM&LIBRARY

Comfortable lawn at the entrance
Museum and library with cafe

Once I got off at Matsuhashi Station, it was a 10-minute walk from there. With my digital single-lens reflex camera, which was finally introduced on this trip, in hand, I set out for the Shiranui Art Museum and Library in high spirits.
After passing through the tunnel in front of the building, the Shiranui Art Museum and Library finally came into view. The building was designed by architect Atsushi Kitagawahara and Ito Architects based on the symbolic image of "Shiranui," a mirage phenomenon created by the Shiranui Sea.
The exterior of the building is very distinctive, with 95 meters of continuous organic white lines stacked on top of each other, and the contrast with the green grass surrounding the building is beautiful.
As soon as you enter, you are greeted by the Book & Café. As I was holding my camera ready, I was told, "Sorry, photography is not allowed inside the library. The café is fine." A staff member warned me, "You're not allowed to take pictures inside the library. The camera boy's day ended early. After circling the library, I ordered an iced café latte at the café and left the Shiranui Art Museum and Library after relaxing for a while.

Hours of operation

Library: 9:00-21:00
Museum: 9:00-18:00

address (e.g. of house)

869-0552
2352 Takara, Shirani-cho, Ugi, Kumamoto, Japan

closed day

open every day of the year

*As of April 2025

16:40

library

Children's Book Forest Kumamoto

KUMAMOTO
CHILDREN'S BOOK FOREST

Surrounded by picture books on the walls
Library like an art museum

After checking in to the hotel and dropping off my luggage, I made another dash to the Kumamoto streetcar and headed for the biggest destination of the trip, "Kodomo Hon no Mori Kumamoto" (Children's Book Forest Kumamoto).
The library closes at 5 p.m., but thanks to my repeated dashes, I managed to arrive 20 minutes early.
The "Children's Book Forest" is a project initiated by world-renowned architect Tadao Ando to help children, who are increasingly losing interest in the printed word, discover the joy and richness of books. The "Children's Book Forest Kumamoto" in Kumamoto is the fourth location of the project.
This library is for children who are the future of Kumamoto. The logo at the entrance is also very cute.

Since I had already made an advance reservation online, I told my name at the reception desk and was told that photography was allowed here when I entered.
The building itself is not that large, but the picture books decorating the walls of the library were as beautiful as if it were a museum, and the warmth of the wood created a comfortable and soothing atmosphere.
The light leaking from the triangular windows on the ceiling and between the bookshelves was as warm as sunlight filtering through the trees in the forest. Many children were reading picture books with their bodies in the spaces between the walls, which was also cute.
It was a very nice library that I would definitely take my children to if it were near my house.

Hours of operation

9:30-17:00

address (e.g. of house)

2-5-1, Demizu, Chuo-ku, Kumamoto-shi, Kumamoto 862-8612

closed day

Tuesdays, last Friday of each month, special arrangement periods, year-end and New Year's holidays

*As of April 2025

17:30

Hotel

RESTERS BED&CO.

Lester's Bed and Co.

A new
business hotel in the Kuhonji area.

After seeing the Children's Book Forest Kumamoto, we returned to the business hotel "RESTERS BED&CO." on a panicked Kumamoto tram and took a break for the evening meeting.
This hotel was built based on the concept of "a comfortable rest at the end and beginning of the day," and exhibits the works of Kumamoto artists, etc. We were attracted by the simple yet stylish space and decided to stay.

address (e.g. of house)

862-0976
1-4-18 Kuhonji, Chuo-ku, Kumamoto-shi, Kumamoto

18:30

tavern

Yakitori Nomiitei

The "Talking about Studio with a side of Studio" is a behind-the-scenes project of the "Tour of Architecture in Japan". This is a project to meet with Studio users in the areas they visit and ask them about Studio.
This time, we were joined by Mr. Furusho, Studio's first ambassador, and Mr. Maru, a designer who came all the way from Fukuoka for this event.

Mr. Furusho, the first ambassador of Studio, and Mr. Maru, a designer who came all the way from Fukuoka for this event. and other topics such as reevaluating the value of reality and people, as well as the different impression of graphics in Fukuoka and Kumamoto.
It was a very enjoyable evening, and we talked about everything from creativity to our personal lives, including our respective families and children.

We also enjoyed Kumamoto's standard food such as horse sashimi, a Kumamoto specialty, and spicy lotus root, which Kumamoto residents usually don't eat. The horse liver sashimi served with sesame oil and green onions was especially delicious.
The night in Kumamoto made me realize how great it is to talk with locals over drinks like this. Kumamoto has a lot of young people who are rooted in the local community and want to make Kumamoto a better place. It was a wonderful town, and I could understand why so many young people are rooted in their hometowns and want to make Kumamoto a better place.

Yakitori Nomiitei

address (e.g. of house)

2F, 1-10 CHUOGAI, CHUO-KU, KUMAMOTO CITY, KUMAMOTO PREFECTURE

Business Hours

Mon-Sat
11:45-14:00
18:00-00:00

regular closing day

day (of the month)

*As of April 2025

ASO
Aso

2025.4.25

/ Day 2

Aso City

region

Northeast Kumamoto

area

376.30 km2

total population

23,3637人

*Excerpt from Wikipedia (April 2025)

10:00

facility

Honda Kumamoto
Welcome Park

HONDA KUMAMOTO
WELCOME PARK

Tour with a classmate from high school
A trip to the great nature of Aso

If I had a chance to visit Kumamoto, I would have loved to see Mt. Aso.
And it is a miracle that a friend of mine who spent the same time in high school, prep school, and college lives in Aso.
He has loved motorcycles since his high school days, and after graduating from college, he joined Honda because of his love for motorcycles. He was also involved in the production of a large motorcycle for the Hollywood live-action film version of Ghost in the Shell, a dream come true to the point of envy.

When I told my friend that I was going to Kumamoto, he graciously agreed to take me on a one-day driving tour of Aso. (Let me tell you the story of how he broke both his heels at the after-party of my wedding somewhere else.)

Discover the fascination of motorcycles
Honda Kumamoto Welcome Park

After being picked up at Kumamoto Castle first thing in the morning, we headed first to "Honda Kumamoto Welcome Park," a recently built facility next to the main gate of Honda Motor Kumamoto Manufacturing, which he had never been to before.
The facility includes an exhibition space, a garage box made from a container, and a hands-on experience area. The exhibition space displays motorcycles and general-purpose machines that were manufactured at Honda Kumamoto Manufacturing, as well as MOTOGP motorcycles and legendary motorcycles.
It was a strange feeling for me to see not only the motorcycles on display, but also to see my friend's face that I usually don't see, as I ran into his boss in the facility. It has been about 10 years since my friend moved from Tokyo to Kumamoto. I could feel the passage of time as we started our tour of Aso.

Hours of operation

Park 6:00-22:00
Building 9:30-18:30

address (e.g. of house)

869-1293
1500 Hirakawa, Otsu-cho, Kikuchi-gun, Kumamoto
*Honda Motor Kumamoto Manufacturing Co.

closed day

Wed, Thu

*As of April 2025

11:15

viewing platform

Kabuto Iwa Observatory

KABUTOIWA

Aso Gogaku and Aso valley can be viewed at
Hole in the road

Next, we headed to "Kabutoiwa Observatory," one of the best viewing points from which you can see the five Aso peaks and the Aso valley.
It is not the kind of place you would come to in a big bus on a tour, but there is a store and restrooms, so it is a nice little hole-in-the-wall.
After work, my friends and I would come here and smoke cigarettes while watching the sun set. There are no more smoking areas at the factory. My friend says, "I can't believe I get to see a view like this every day after work.
I envy him for being able to see such a view every day after work. (It was cloudy that day).

address (e.g. of house)

Nishikoen, Aso City, Kumamoto Prefecture

12:30

lunch

Aso Flamebush

ASO HANABISHI

Hot egg and wasabi are involved.
Superb red meat.

After enjoying the spectacular view at the Kabutoiwa Observatory, it was almost time for lunch. Since Kumamoto is famous for red beef, I was taken to a restaurant called "Aso Hanabishi, specializing in red beef" on the Aso Shrine Monzenmachi Street.
The interior of the restaurant is tastefully decorated with antique furniture.
Of course, I ordered the standard "Akagyu-don," a bowl of rice topped with an egg on top and wasabi (Japanese horseradish). The menu says, "In addition to the hot egg and wasabi, there is also pickled daikon radish with takana and bean sprouts with sesame paste underneath the meat. It's just as it says on the menu, and how could it not be delicious? The rare, tender, and superb red meat was melt-in-your-mouth delicious.

Aso Flamebush

Business Hours

Lunch 11:00-15:00
Evening 17:30-22:30

regular closing day

Wednesday

address (e.g. of house)

869-2612
1861 Ichinomiya Miyachi, Aso City

devices

*As of April 2025

13:15

Shinto shrine

Aso Shrine

ASO SHRINE

There are about 500 shrines in Japan.
The head office of "Aso Shrine

After lunch, we took a walk to the nearby Aso Shrine, which was severely damaged by the Kumamoto earthquake in April 2016. The restoration work took about eight and a half years, and all restoration work including the tower gate will be completed in December 2023.
About 11,000 parts and materials were recovered from the completely collapsed tower gate and repaired while reusing them as much as possible, resulting in a reuse rate of 72%.
The shrine looks as dignified as if nothing had happened to it. One can only wonder how many people were involved in the construction, and one can only be thankful to those who completed this daunting task.

temple which issues amulets

9:00-17:00

address (e.g. of house)

3083-1 Miyachi, Ichinomiya-cho, Aso, Kumamoto 869-2612

14:15

cafe

CAFE

cafe latte tour

Kusasenri Coffee Roasting Station, a rotary and cafe, stands in a location overlooking Kusasenrigahama, one of Aso's most popular sightseeing spots. It is apparently produced by the popular Coffee Kairo in Shinmachi, Kumamoto City.
Mr. Furusho recommended this café to me, and I had a café latte, a must-have drink at least once a day.
The chic and simple interior is very stylish, and I was happy to enjoy my latte while looking out over the vast grasslands of Kusasenri.

Kusasenri Coffee Roasting Shop

address (e.g. of house)

2391-15 Nagakusa, Aso City, Kumamoto Prefecture

Business Hours

10:00-17:30(L.O. 17:00)

*As of April 2025

15:00

mountain in Kumamoto Prefecture

Aso Nakadake Crater

ASO VOLCANO

Erupting a white plume of smoke
Caldera of Aso

A 10-minute drive from the Kusasenri Coffee Roasting Shop brought us to the Aso Nakadake Crater, Aso's caldera, which is the main focus of today's tour. The Aso caldera is one of the largest in the world, measuring 18 km east to west and 25 km north to south, and among the five Aso peaks (Mt. Negodake, Mt. Takadake, Mt. Nakadake, Mt.
Nakadake is 600 m in diameter and 130 m deep, and a white plume of smoke continues to erupt from its huge crater, which has a circumference of 4 km.

As soon as we got out of the car, the strong smell of sulfur stung our noses. Apparently, depending on the volcanic gas emissions and weather conditions, entry to the volcano may be prohibited, but today was the day when the alert level was at its lowest, so we were able to visit the volcano safely.
On the way to the crater, there is a facility called an "evacuation shelter" for evacuation in the event of an eruption.
This is only a part of the crater; in fact, Aso itself is a crater. We left the crater, heeding my friend's words, "I heard that if all of these erupt, an ice age will come.

address (e.g. of house)

Kurokawa, Aso City, Kumamoto Prefecture

16:00

Shinto shrine

Kamishikimi Kumanoza Shrine

KAMISHIKIMIKUMANOZA SHRINE

Location of that movie!
Popular Power Spot Shrines

Since my return flight was at night, I was taken to Kamishikimi Kumanoza Shrine in the second half of my trip to Aso.
The shrine is said to have first attracted attention as the setting for the animated film "To the Hotarubi no Morihe" by Yukio Midorikawa, a manga artist from Kumamoto Prefecture, and more recently as the location for the final chapter of the movie "Rurouni Kenshin" (Rurouni Kenshin).

The stone lanterns lined up on both sides were majestic and beautiful, and the sunlight filtering through the trees created a very mysterious atmosphere.
After slowly climbing the stone steps for about 10 minutes, the main hall appeared. The "Ugeto-iwa," a hole in the huge rock wall further up the steps, is said to be famous. The other side of the hole seemed to be connected to some other world. It was truly a power spot.

Business Hours

9:00-17:00

address (e.g. of house)

2619 Kamishikimi, Takamori-cho, Aso-gun, Kumamoto

17:30

roadside station (government-designated rest area)

Asobo no Sato Kugini

ASO KUGINO

Roadside Station with spectacular views

The roadside station "Asobo no Sato Kugini" was on the way back to the airport to take me home. The view from here was very beautiful.
However, all the stores were closed by the time we arrived because of the early closing time. The view from the observatory on the way to the station was so beautiful with the light coming through the clouds that I was lost in admiration for a while.
A young couple next to me asked me to take their picture, and I was able to get a nice one, but this was just two old men enjoying the scenery on the way back home.

When we arrived at the airport, we were told, "Kumamoto is also good for udon noodles and chicken tempura. So we had dinner at "Japanese Restaurant Rindo" in the airport.
It was the first time for the two of us to be alone together for such a long time, so we talked about work, family, future, and other things that we could talk about here, which really moved me.
We have grown up together, haven't we? And so our most enjoyable trip to Kumamoto and Aso came to an end. (Once again, let me tell you the story of how he broke both of his heels at the after-party of my wedding.)

Business Hours

9:00-17:00
*Varies by facility

address (e.g. of house)

2815, Kuseki, Minamiaso-mura, Aso-gun, Kumamoto, Japan

Travel, Work, and

A Journey Through Japanese Architecture

March
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2025

Journey
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