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NIIGATA

Niigata

A Journey Through Modern Architecture and the Nagaoka Fireworks Festival

#Niigata City Akiha Ward Cultural Center
#Kōnan Ward Cultural Center
#Nagaoka Fireworks
#Nagaoka Ginger Soy Sauce Ramen

A tour of
architecture in Japan

August

8.1-3

March
to
December
2025

Journey
through
Japanese
Architecture

CONTENTS

Introduction / Table of Contents

NIIGATA
NAGAOKA

[Introduction.]

Studio Design Award 2024 Grand Prix Winner (Travel and Work) Using the ¥1 million prize money received as a supplementary award, this is the sixth installment of "Travel and Work | A Journey Through Japanese Architecture," a 10-month project to verify the idea that "creativity seems to be proportional to distance traveled."
This time, a trip to Niigata to explore modern architecture and the spectacular Nagaoka Fireworks Festival, which I visit almost every year.

[Total distance traveled to date]

about

3,736

km

第6弾

Tokyo → Sanjo → Niigata → Nagaoka

about

390

km

第5弾

Tokyo → Sapporo → Otaru

about

858

km

第4弾

Tokyo → Yamagata → Sakata/Tsuruoka

about

513

km

第3弾

Tokyo → Osaka

about

552

km

第2弾

Tokyo → Kumamoto → Aso

about

908

km

第1弾

Tokyo → Ishikawa → Toyama

about

515

km

[Travel expenses to date]

439,415

Yen / Yen

100

10,000 Yen

第6弾

Niigata

25,868

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

15,860

lodging expense

10,008

Talking about Studio with a side of Studio

Thank you for the meal.

第5弾

Hokkaido

83,305

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

36,229

lodging expense

35,730

Talking about Studio with a side of Studio

5,976

rent-a-cycle

1,700

Head Buddha Viewing Fee

500

Food and beverage expenses

3,170

第4弾

Yamagata

85,555

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

35,960

lodging expense

30,640

Hotel Dinner

9,990

Honma Museum of Art

1,100

Ken Domon Memorial Museum

900

rent-a-cycle

500

Sora

1,500

Kamo Aquarium

1,500

Shido Museum

1,000

Food and beverage expenses

2,465

第3弾

Osaka

115,260

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

29,440

lodging expense

68,000

Expo ticket (2 days / 1 adult)

12,000

Talking about Studio with a side of Studio

5,000

Kanza: Delicious Ramen

820

第2弾

Aso, Kumamoto

66,627

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

41,327

lodging expense

8,500

coin-operated locker

700

Talking about Studio with a side of Studio

8,370

Kumamoto's famous food

6,730

Mt. Aso Park Road Usage Fee

1,000

第1弾

Ishikawa/Toyama

62,800

suffix for names of swords, armour, musical instruments, etc.

traveling expenses

30,200

lodging expense

16,400

rent-a-cycle

1,100

art museum

2,000

Talking about Studio with a side of Studio

12,000

Toyama Black Ramen & Rice

1,100

They say creativity is proportional to the distance traveled.
SANJO/NIIGATA
Sanjo, Niigata

2025.8.1

/ Day 1

Niigata City

region

Chubu Region, Hokuriku Region, Koshinetsu Region

area

12,583.67 km²

total population

5,013,969人

prefectural capital

Niigata City

※Excerpt from Wikipedia (August 2025)

9:30

mixed-use complex

Machi-yama

MACHIYAMA


A multifunctional facility in the city of craftsmanship

August is the busiest season for my main job, the Awa Odori dance.
After agonizing over where to go and when to go to complete my monthly trip, Niigata suddenly came to mind.
Our annual family trip to the Niigata Nagaoka Fireworks Festival. My August plan was to arrive the day before and explore Niigata.
So, rocking along on the first morning Shinkansen, I disembarked at Sanjo Station.
My target here was "Machiyama," a facility integrating a "Library," "Blacksmith Museum," "Science Education Center," "Stage Engawa," and "Plaza."
Since photography inside requires a permit, I obtained one at the information counter and explored the interior.

True to its identity as a town of craftsmanship, the space conveyed the spirit, knowledge, history, and techniques of blacksmithing passed down in Sanjo. Around the library, people of all ages were reading, studying, or working at their leisure.
I worked there for about an hour myself and found it a very comfortable space, clearly cherished by the locals.

Hours of operation

See website

address (e.g. of house)

11-6 Motomachi, Sanjo City, Niigata Prefecture

※As of August 2025

11:30

ramen

Masahiro Public Dining Hall

MASAHIRO

One of Niigata's Five Great Ramen
Sanjo Curry Ramen

Looking into ramen in Niigata, it seems there's something called the "Niigata Five Great Ramen." I knew about "Nagaoka Ginger Shoyu" and "Tsubame Back Fat," but this was my first time learning about the others.
When planning this trip's route, "Sanjo Curry Ramen" worked out perfectly. I'd never had curry ramen outside of Cup Noodles, so I was really intrigued. Figuring it was worth the effort, I walked there from Machiyama.It wasn't that far to walk, but it was brutally hot outside. By the time I arrived, I was drenched in sweat.

I ordered the most popular set: "Curry Ramen and Mini Tare Katsu Don Set." I'd imagined a soup like curry nanban, but the curry broth, which complemented the umami-rich ramen, was delicious.
After finishing the mini tare katsu don too, I was stuffed to the gills and headed back to Machiyama.

Masahiro Public Dining Hall

Business Hours

Tue: 11:00 AM - 2:30 PM
Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat: 11:00 AM - 2:30 PM / 5:00 PM - 9:00 PM
Sun & Holidays: 11:00 AM - 3:00 PM / 5:00 PM - 9:00 PM

regular closing day

Monday (Open on holidays)

address (e.g. of house)

2-13-38 Ishigami, Sanjo City, Niigata Prefecture

devices

※As of August 2025

14:00

Cultural Center

Niigata City Akiha Ward Cultural Center

AKIBA WARD CULTURAL CENTER

Both exterior and interior are too modern

After enjoying comfortable remote work in Machiyama, I took the JR Shinetsu Main Line from Sanjo Station to Niitsu Station.
My main destination here was the Niigata City Akiha Ward Cultural Center, which had piqued my interest most on this trip and won the 2014 Good Design Award.
It's about a 15-minute walk from Niitsu Station, but given the intense heat, I tried to rent a bike near the station only to find rentals suspended due to a heatstroke alert being issued.
With no other choice, I bought an ice cup and Aquarius at a convenience store, then poured the drink directly into the ice as I walked toward the hall.
Exhausted by the intense heat, I walked slowly for about 15 minutes.After passing a nearby middle school, a super modern building surrounded by greenery suddenly appeared.
The futuristic curves and the green peeking through them were incredibly beautiful, and the water surrounding it gave it a somewhat mystical feel.
However, the heat was so intense I didn't have the luxury to admire it properly, so I immediately took a break at the cafe inside.
After recovering, I walked around the building once. The design, where its appearance completely changed depending on the angle, was also interesting.

closed day

The second and fourth Monday of each month (if the designated day falls on a national holiday, the following day)
Year-end and New Year holidays (December 29 to January 3)

address (e.g. of house)

4-23 Shinei-cho, Akiha Ward, Niigata City

※As of August 2025

16:00

stroll

Kōnan Ward Cultural Center

KONAN CULTURAL CENTER


Cultural Center

Next, we moved from Niitsu Station to Kameda Station and visited the Niigata City Konan Ward Cultural Center, which won the 2013 Good Design Award. (Upon checking, both projects were directed by Chiaki Arai.)
The Niigata City Konan Ward Cultural Center is a cultural complex housing four functions: a music and theater hall, the Kameda District Community Center, the Kameda Library, and the Konan Ward Local History Museum.
Inside, countless tiny lights scattered across the walls emitted a gentle glow like a starry sky, creating a beautiful scene.
Judging by the images, both the Niigata City Akiha Ward Cultural Hall and this hall are highly original and beautiful spaces. It's frustrating that I couldn't pay an admission fee to see inside.
After getting a general look at the interior, I headed to the hotel to prepare for the evening event.

Hours of operation

See website

address (e.g. of house)


, 3-chome 1-14, Chinosan, Konan Ward, Niigata City, Niigata Prefecture

※As of August 2025

19:00

tavern

Original Hokkaido Fish Skewers Gariya

This time, thanks to Mr. Inukai from NEWTOWN connecting us, I finally got to meet Egon-san, known for those wonderful illustrations and diverse activities!
He even made reservations at a lovely restaurant and guided us inside, where to my surprise, the entire leadership team—including Mr. Oe, the CEO of Dotcom Marketing Inc. (the company where Egon-san works), along with the COO, CMO, and CSO—was assembled.
Though I felt a bit intimidated at first, once the meeting started, everyone was incredibly friendly and warm. We enjoyed a pleasant, lively atmosphere with delicious food, making for a truly enjoyable time.
What surprised me most was the relationship between Tsubame City and Sanjo City. I'd always thought of them as one entity, "Tsubame-Sanjo," but apparently that's not quite the case. While I won't go into details here, there are various complexities involved.
Also, when I mentioned Niigata's Five Great Ramen, I was surprised to learn it was actually created through a project by Mr. Oe's company. It's amazing how even cultural aspects of Niigata are being shaped.
We also had various conversations about Niigata, the future of the design industry, and more. It was a very educational night.
(And thank you for the meal!!)

Towards the end of the conversation, someone mentioned, "The Five Great Ramen are great, but the Awa Niboshi Soba at Niigata Station is just plain delicious!"
As a ramen lover and niboshi enthusiast, I knew I had to try it. And amazingly, both Egon-san and Oe-san agreed to join me.
Following Sapporo, we ended up having another ramen finale.
A rich, flavorful niboshi ramen with an elegant, frothy white appearance. The accents of raw onion and rock seaweed were perfect – a supremely satisfying bowl.
It was an incredibly enjoyable night in Niigata, where we even had deep conversations during the closing meal about what kind of work styles will likely be needed going forward and what kind of organizations would be ideal.

Uroko

address (e.g. of house)

2-1-27 Benten, Chuo Ward, Niigata City, Niigata Prefecture

Business Hours

Mon-Sat, Holidays, Day Before/After Holidays
16:30 - 23:00
(Last Order: Food 22:00, Drinks 22:30)

regular closing day

Sunday (or the next business day if it falls on the eve of a holiday)

※As of August 2025

NAGAOKA
Nagaoka

2025.8.2

/ Day 2

Nagaoka City

region

Chubu Region, Hokuriku Region, Koshinetsu Region

area

891.05 km²

total population

253,355人

※Excerpt from Wikipedia (August 2025)

11:00

ramen

Aoshima Restaurant

AOSHIMA RESTAURANT

Nagaoka's THE Classic!
Nagaoka Ginger Soy Sauce Ramen

From Niigata Station, take the Joetsu Shinkansen to Miyauchi Station.
When you come to Nagaoka, you absolutely must try this ginger soy sauce ramen. The most famous place is Aoshima Shokudo. And the main shop.
It was the day of the Nagaoka Fireworks Festival and a Saturday, so probably the busiest day of the year. I was prepared for some queue, but arriving at opening time at 11:00 AM, I was surprised to find a line of over 100 people already formed.
This was the first time I'd ever waited in line this long for a bowl of ramen. I stood in the sweltering heat, wiping sweat with a towel, for about an hour.
The ginger soy ramen I finally got to eat had less pronounced ginger flavor than I expected. It was a refined, refreshing taste with just a hint of ginger aroma.

Aoshima Shokudo Miyauchi Station Front Branch

Business Hours

11:00 AM - 7:00 PM

regular closing day

Third Wednesday (closed on January 1)

address (e.g. of house)

3-5-3 Miyauchi, Nagaoka City, Niigata Prefecture

devices

※As of August 2025

13:00

mixed-use complex

Aore Nagaoka

CITY HALL PLAZA-AÔRE NAGAOKA

The warmth of wood and the light streaming through are beautiful
A complex facility that also houses the main city hall functions

After eating ramen and working up a sweat, we boarded the bus to Nagaoka Station.
The heat was beyond expectations, leaving me short on T-shirts, so I hurriedly bought one at Shimamura before heading to the next destination, "Aore Nagaoka."
Aore Nagaoka is Japan's first integrated complex facility designed by Kengo Kuma, combining a 5,000-seat arena, the open-air Nakadoma (roofed plaza), and the city hall.
While it also houses the main city hall functions, the open Nakadoma plaza is such a pleasant space that I visit it every time I come to Nagaoka.
And since I always come to Nagaoka for the Nagaoka Fireworks Festival, it's fun to experience the festival atmosphere with all the food stalls set up in full force.

While walking and taking photos, I happened to run into my family and their friends. Since we were all staying at a relative's house tonight, I decided to stop by a cafe before heading home.

Hours of operation

See website

address (e.g. of house)

1-4-10 Ote-dori, Nagaoka City, Niigata Prefecture

※As of August 2025

14:00

cafe

CAFE

cafe latte tour

Every time I come to Nagaoka, I always stop by this cafe called "Good Luck Coffee." It's conveniently located on the way from the station to my relatives' house, and its stylish vibe sets it apart from the surrounding shops, so it's always packed this time of year.
The interior is filled with various tasteful little items, showing the owner's attention to detail.
Their donuts and cafe latte are delicious, so I got a cafe latte to go and headed straight to my relatives' house.

Good Luck Coffee

address (e.g. of house)

2-6-8 Higashisakanoue-cho, Nagaoka City, Niigata Prefecture
Yuwa Building, 1F

Business Hours

Tue–Sun: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM

regular closing day

Monday

※As of August 2025

18:30

Fireworks Festival

Nagaoka Fireworks Festival

NAGAOKA FIREWORKS

Will Tokyo's fireworks soon be gone?
A fireworks festival that overturns the very concept of fireworks festivals

After relaxing at my relative's house and stocking up on local ingredients and sake at the supermarket, we all walked together to our evening treat: the Nagaoka Fireworks Festival.
A famous Niigata soul food is "Italian" – yakisoba topped with meat sauce.
It's interesting that the taste of Italian differs between the Shimoetsu region/Niigata area and the Chūetsu region/Nagaoka area. But for me, who comes to Nagaoka almost every year, the Italian at "Friend" is THE Italian lol
I also want to mention that the water eggplant is incredibly delicious.

Now, the Nagaoka Fireworks Festival, one of Japan's three major fireworks festivals.
The total number of paid spectators over two days is 340,000.In 2019, it apparently recorded its highest attendance ever at 1.08 million people.
The Nagaoka Fireworks Festival originated from the "Nagaoka Reconstruction Festival" held on August 1, 1946, the year after the Nagaoka air raid. Fireworks are launched at the exact time the air raid began (10:30 PM on August 1), embodying the spirit of reconstruction.

What sets this fireworks display apart from others I've seen is its structured program. Each firework has a sponsoring company, and every time one is launched, the company name and the firework's title are announced. While every firework is impressive in scale and presentation, the most popular is the "Tenchi-jin Fireworks." This story-driven display, synchronized to music, began in 2008 to commemorate the 2009 NHK historical drama "Tenchi-jin."
The "Shōsanchikudama" (Approx. 90cm diameter, 300kg) is a massive firework shell that blooms into a giant flower with a diameter of about 650m.
Then there's the "Phoenix," which began in 2004 as a wish for recovery from the Niigata Chuetsu Earthquake. It is now launched as a symbol of recovery, peace, and gratitude for support from across the nation.
The Phoenix display, beginning as Ayaka Hirahara's "Jupiter" resonates throughout the venue, is truly breathtaking—so beautiful it brings tears to some eyes.
Its total launch span is approximately 2 kilometers. The sheer scale, too vast to fit within one's field of vision, creates a sense that this is something entirely different from any previous fireworks festival.

Date of Event

August 2nd and 3rd

address (e.g. of house)

See website

※As of August 2025

Travel, Work, and

A Journey Through Japanese Architecture

March
to
December
2025

Journey
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Japanese
Architecture

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